IMHO I believe they are on par with each other, just depends what you are looking for. ![]() I won't say it is better/worse than the Limbdriver. If you serve the pull cord into the downard cable the set screw will come in handy with timing, but might require drawing the bow back a couple of times to get it set just right. Changing out the cord is a bit of a pain until you find out how to do it. I just shoot cock vane up with the shorter launcher and my arrows come out cleanly (this was tested with lipstick, don't tell the wife). Like I said above, the curved containment arm is a big plus when dealing with clearence issues. The lockdown feature is a plus, but I never had a problem with bounce back with my original QAD. It is quiet and I will say it seems to drop very fast. Plus if something happens to my original QAD gear I can just pop the HDX gear back on. Now I have what I consider the ultimate rest. So in order to get full containment, with the quietest possible rest, I changed the gear (can't think of a better word, but I am referring to the bottom part of the rest) on the QDX with my original QAD, seeing as how they were interchangeable. The QDX has a curved containment arm which solved this problem. My Problem with the original QAD was that the straight containment arm across the top of my rest caught my Blazers every time, so I sawed it off, which caused me to lose the full containment feature. Luckily for me (or unlocky depending on how you look at it), with only having a 26.5" draw my arrows were never too fast for the original QAD. Now I know some people had a problem with the original QAD not dropping fast enough for them. I think this is due to the internal lockdown feature of the HDX. To me (IMHO) the HDX was quieter than the Limbdriver by a noticeable amount, BUT was not as quiet as my original QAD. I compared the HDX to the two rest I already had, the Limbdriver and an original QAD Ultra Rest (the one before they started separating their quality and just made a **** good rest). I took the bow outside and within a couple of shots, had it shooting bullet holes through paper from 2-15 yards. The nice thing about this was it did not put any further stress on the cable so I didn't have any trouble with the cams being out of time. Now when I drew my bow back, the "full draw" lines, lined up when my draw stop hit. I let the bow down and then tightened the clamp screw. The clamp will then move up the cable to the position it needs to be. As you draw the tension on the pull cord will cause the "full draw" lines on the rest to line up. ![]() I placed an arrow on the rest, cocked it, and drew the bow back. I found it easiest to do this by running the pull cord in through the bottom of the clamp. I tightened the screw to the point that the clamp would still slide up the cable, but the pull cord would not move. After doing so, I attached the cable clamp to the downward cable with the cord pulled through it. Moving on, I did not like the camo cord that came with the rest (just due to how I wanted my bow set up, nothing wrong with the actual cord itself) and immediately wanted to change it. This is a good thing because it leads to absolutely no slop with the spacer, therefore the arrow placed on the spacer would be consistent if QAD qould add it. ![]() The spacer is not threaded but it is tight enough on the screw that you actually have to turn the screw though the hole. One thing I think QAD could have done was place another arrow on the spacer so that it would meet the adjustment lines. I installed the spacer (hard to see but if you look at the arrow pointing left, you will notice it doesn't actually butt up to the horizontal adjustment lines). Got the rest screwed on to the riser and noticed I needed it to move a little more to the shelf. Set Up was a breeze and took about 30 minutes from start to bullet holes. Cable clamp to install without serving into cable ![]() The bow came like that and I have a set on order from Breathn. First off, please, please, please ignore the strings on the bow.
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